I woke up in the morning and saw.. dang, it's raining.
Well. Nevermind. Poncho on. Into the rain. Didn't take one minute when a car stopped. Opened the window, saying "get in, it's raining!"
Awesome.
That was not the only thing how they enriched the morning. We actually had a pretty spiritual conversation about meditative practice. Even though short. There was a lot of nuance in it.
It all started with my plan to visit Dalai Lama.
They liked it, and uncle asked whether I practice meditation? Then he asked: How?
I was surprised. I gave him an ad-hoc answer.
His answer was once more surprising.
"You should not tell anyone. Keep it as secret. Only if they are really curious and ask, tell them.
What work for you, is what works for you. Keep on meditating.
Don't worry. The result will come."
Wait... what?
"The result?"
I asked them exactly that. But their English was not good enough. Do you see why I'm so fascinated?
Traditionally when we meditate, for what reason do we do it? Or what's the first thing that comes to our mind?
Relaxation, right?
There is more though. And the driver just hinted at it. It seems to be an act of creation as well. Some, like Dr. Joe Dispenza are expanding on that and pioneering meditation also as a medicine.
That reminded again about other cultures, where prayer is not just a way to connect and send out some thoughts. For some it's actually almost like a command, also a creative act.
It was no long conversation. But an interesting one. Because he was clear about the notion, that mediation, like prayer, is a connection with something, to get something.
The ride was almost over, and I asked them if it was possible to drop me at the bus station.
"Sure. No problem."
Reached at 8. Talked with the bus drivers. Bus starts at 10.
Time, I have. Time for breakfast.
When I left the surprising breakfast place, the rain has cleared. And I don't exactly know why, but I really liked the mood and somehow this image captures that wildness pretty well.
Wanted to be early. Had one particular need though.
And was sure there must be a washroom at the bus station. But it was closed. So I went to the shiny newly built house. For the official state buses. I thought come on, those people working there must be human. There must be a washroom. I was again pointed in twelve different directions before I ultimately found it.
What I saw there was hardly believable though. The building from outside was shiny, freshly painted and everything seemed proper. Was this really the washroom? Technically it wasn't in the building because I had to leave it and move to another building opposite, but still. That could have become a character test for some. The smell was breathtaking. Thank god it was the quick one.
Either way, after taking care of the business, Felix was happy:
Ready. For a short hiking adventure. Usually a three day, two night trek.
Easy.
The bus left, everything according to the plan.
I saw something funny, seems like there wasn't that much business yet in the morning for this young lad.
That's how shops look like here. After one or two hours we reached my destination. At the junction was a cozy cafe.
When I reached it was full. More than ten bikers took a break there. We joked around what's better. Walking or biking. And to my surprise one of the bikers himself took the words of my mouth:
"With biking I don't really feel connected to my surrounding. And I know what I'm talking about. I walked the Camino de Santiago 11 or 12 times."
That itself is quite impressive. Biking really felt too fast for me. You might see many places. But do you really see them? For me it doesn't feel like it. Although I liked the ride with Melroy.
Three independent bikers stayed longer to talk. One of them again a solo travelling Indian girl. I didn't recommend them to do what I will do.
Because even though I'll be free out there. Without experience it can turn really quickly into being lost. And freedom isn't really anything different. I think it's valid to say it's actually kind of like being lost. Only that we are comfortable, and not overwhelmed by it. Experience makes you know you find your way, even though there is nobody around telling you what to do, how to do it and so on. I saw the sparkle in her eyes. She was fascinated.
Eventually though, they continued following their plan. And I was there. On my own. In the middle of Ladakh. Without internet. Without really knowing where to go. With GPS though. A big benefit and of the reasons why I eventually returned to having a smartphone from my indestructible call-and-SMS-only Nokia. I strengthened myself with Chai. Since there were still people, I simply asked them about the direction and was perplexed. I should walk on road? Hmm let's see. Either way. Here is the journey profile.
The following description is meant to be a guiding light for all fellow hikers. It's not about beautiful images, but more about providing technical information as of August 2026.
Here I had to turn left.
I prayed that the rain, visible at the mountain range in front of me, would not move towards me. Because that looked like proper rain.
I was wondering myself how I should find the way? At first I didn't see any road markers. So I also missed the next turn.
Looking down down I definitely saw a hiking path. So I returned and was looking for markers. Do you see the orange red marker on the street light to the right? I guess that was it.
In a more close up shot.
Here is actually one of my favorite pictures:
Here is how the hiking path looked like there.
Down in the valley was a small oasis. The picture doesn't really portray the lush colors well.
I was just thinking, "wow, this bridge looks like it's gonna collapse the moment I'm gonna step on it." At this point I didn't know that I would encounter many bridges. And most of them would turn into real tests of courage for me. Turning my stomach around.
Without GPS I would have had no chance. Honestly. But after some time i think I found some more markers. See the red cross on the left of the wall? That proved to be somewhat reliable.
I traversed a small settlement when I stumbled upon carved stones. If i'm not wrong those carvings are in Tibetan language and often the famous mantra "Om Ma Ni Padme Hum".
From Wikipedia (treat with care):
In Tibetan Buddhism [practiced here in Ladakh] this is the most ubiquitous mantra and its recitation is a popular form of religious practice. It is also an ever-present feature of the landscape, commonly carved onto rocks, known as mani stones, painted into the sides of hills, or else it is written on prayer flags and prayer wheels.
Outside of the settlement the path would get really arid.
No wonder it's compared to the moon landscape.
This turn was another interesting one. I'd just have taken the road. But I followed a strict no-road policy (if possible). So I was standing there. Looking on my phone. Which said to the left there should be a way.
I was thinking "no way, I gotta go down that steep valley? Fun."
I stood there. A car drove by. Already around the corner. He returned. Offered a lift. I declined, but gladly took one banana. And then would face the descend.
Those images somehow don't capture it. In real life those things look steeper. After all we alo talk about several hundred elevation meters, at above 3000m. Mountains are anyways no environment for careless people. So maybe that's good that the images don't represent what I saw. Don't wanna make you sick of altitude.
The hike was actually really fun. And I noticed I'm quite fast.
But I also knew there was a steep ascend right after a small settlement called Sumdo. I hoped that at Sumdo there was a possibility to rest, drink some chai and have lunch. And actually, in the middle of nowhere it was.
Tea? Coffee?
Do you have lunch?
Yes. Come.
Gone. Up?
Yes yes.
Then this view. Oh my god.
My Bihari friend asked about Lunch:
Dal and Rice?
Hmm.. What do you have?
He he.. (He was just smiling and shaking the head)
I see. Dal and Rice was the only option. Sure, Dal and Rice. Perfect!
I listened to the river. Had basic food. A chai. Slept for thirty minutes. Harvested some apricots for the way. Said thanks to my Bihari friend who didn't speak English.
And then it was about time to ascend roughly five hundred meters to almost reach a 4000m. mountain pass.
To my surprise though it was actually really okay. I think the Big Arber has something like 800 elevation meter from 600 to 1400 meters. That is supposed to be the king's hike in the Bavarian forest. This Sham valley trek was a baby trek here. Seems like the Himalaya is really on a different level.
Reached the mountain pass and oh boy it was windy.
We could already see Yangthang. It's the green area in front. Greeneries tend to be a good sign of some settlement. And again it was a questions between road or valley. I again chose valley and the valleys were more direct and also fun.
The next picture actually shows how nicely Yangthang is situated.
Reaching the top.
Pretty nice. I reached.
Great feeling.
And I already heard a woman from five hundred meters away shouting "Welcome, come here!" She was inviting for a home stay. That would be my first one. So I was notoriously careful. What was common? How much is the rent? What's included? Warm water? Etc.
She said 1000 Rupies. Because of construction. I thanked her, and said I will look around to get an overall idea.
I checked the street out, there were three other homestays. And actually they all were very similar, but they charged more. So I went to the end of the street to enjoy, take a moment and decide.
My feeling said: first one.
I turned around to return. And when looking back all the owners were standing on the street waving me inside. That was funny. It meant I had to walk past all the ones I didn't take. I walked back and had to decline many. One man was standing there, staring right into my eyes. I stopped walking.
Looked back.
Imagine a scene in the wild wild west. This time we were just not holding guns. We were holding eye contact. And he was noticeably unhappy I didn't choose his stay.
This was not a contest who would start laughing first. This called my protection. I knew there I will not sleep.
After easily more than five seconds I asked.
"What?"
He turned away.
I was good to go. My homestay was actually kinda lovely:
Toilets were a construction. That's maybe why she said it's only 1000 INR.
And actually the full family was there. I was again asked whether I was married. Then they pointed to one of the girls. She is single. Only one year younger.
In other terms, that was a wedding proposal.
Nevermind, they had to leave to Leh. Then. The living room was empty.
So I was alone with Mom. And we cooked Skiu.
That was my first homestay. And I must say.
It was really awesome. It felt like I was back on the Camino de Santiago.
Just.. maybe just.. in an even more spiritual area. With even better food. Veg food.
